013 Spoken Compass – Galley Design and Perseverance 12-6-16

Just a quick update on the latest progress as of 12/6/16.

With the bed coming to conclusion, the galley has come up in priority. I am calling it the galley because this is where the cooking will take place as well as the location of the sink and the fridge.


But it will be more than just that. Oh yes, my fine travelers. Lots of electronics like the invertor, AC and DC distribution panels and all of the power monitoring displays will be located here. Some storage along with water and a grey tank will be located here.


I am in the process of determining how the propane tank will be located as well. Do I place it inside the cabinet near the rear doors and wrestle with it every time I need to change it? Or do I shorten the galley a bit and have the propane tank located outside of the cabinet near the rear doors?


Appearance and construction of the galley is also being determined. What kind of hinges? Surface mount versus flush mount doors? Drawers or baskets placed in recesses? Latches or magnets to keep the doors secured during travel? Height and depth of the structure is still being determined as well. I expect the top to be over 38 inches. Maybe even taller.


I have already spent a rainy weekend working in the garage on the basic structure. I am still concerned that the front of the galley is too close to the bed when the bed is extended.

I am planning on spending some time deciding another day of checking clearances and heading to find door hardware. Some decisions need to be made in order to get the dimensions locked down.


Lots to figure out with this. And I still need to get the solar panel wiring run in through the roof. Just picking the best location for the Cable Entry Plate to be mounted is a tedious process. It needs to be placed on the flattest area available yet still be in a location where the wires can be easily run and services if necessary. I was also thinking that I would place it slightly off center to partially hide it under the panels. This would give it an extra layer of protection from rain and evil UV rays.



Perseverance is going to be the key here. I am a bit frustrated that my effort on the galley may need to be scratched and redone. However, I also realize how important this is. If I can get a working footprint or skeletal frame for the galley, I can move a lot of other things forward. The electrical can be started, the rack for the fridge and water containers can be built and the power control modules can be put in a temporary frame and I can begin to wire them together.

Just got to keep the course.



Road Read – Sit and Spin or My Swivel Seat Installation 12-1-16

My vehicle is a 2016 Ford Transit 250. The passenger seat is a manual one.

I am planning on primarily traveling alone so the passenger seat rarely has a butt in it. That being the case, for a large part of the time it is wasted space. Unless you can turn it a get some use out of it while you are parked. This is basically a quick article about how I did my install. Considering that there were absolutely no instructions in with the swivel adapter, maybe this can help if you choose to do something similar.


I ordered the swivel adapter from swivelsrus.com. I liked the look of the product and had read some other positive reviews regarding the quality of the build. It was $329.00 for the adapter and another $45.00 to get it to the house. It arrived well packed but, as mentioned, without any instructions. Included were 8 heavy-duty bolts. Why 8? Hellifino. More on that in a bit. Considering that we only had 8 bolts to work with, I felt I had a fairly good chance of figuring it out.

So the first thing was to figure out what tools were going to be needed. And yep, you are going to need a Torx driver to get the job done. And no, an Allen Key will not work. T-40 fit like a glove. Put it on a decent size ratchet because these factory bolts are in there pretty tight.

But before you get all the bolts out, take a look under there and notice that you have some wire and black box attached to the bottom of the seat. On mine, there were two set of wire going to this box. Only one was detachable. There is a clip riveted to the underside of the seat frame that holds this box in place. Once the box is removed from the clip it will be much easier to see the yellow connection terminal.



Note of caution here. You probably have airbags and all kinds of sorcery hidden in these seats. Be careful and aware when you are removing and replacing these electric terminals. Leave the key off and out of the ignition when doing this stuff and set the parking brake. I am no mechanic and I don’t even play one on TV. Common sense should tell you to freakin’ be careful.


After removing the yellow clip, you can now get to the business of tuning some bolts. That T-40 Torx is going to come in real handy now. Remove the bolts and get the seat out of the way.


See that jack? Remove it. Once this swivel gets bolted down, you will no longer have access to this area. I know. It sucks. We will persevere. I also took out the jack mount because I am going to bolt that bad boy down in a new spot and have my jack handy for the inevitable flat tire.


Now if you are like me, you are at the point where you have places the swivel in its new home and are checking the fitment and looking for any issues.


Good for you. Cause there is one.


For some reason, there is a small handle on the back of the seat that is going to prevent any real rotation while it is there. Get your Dremel, a fresh Cut-Off wheel, a file and some touch up paint and remove this obstruction to your swiveling bliss. Once it is gone, bolt down your swivel. Make sure the red release handle is facing towards the front of the vehicle.


And now we start putting stuff back together. Get the seat back in place and use the bolts (4 of them) to get it nice and secure.


Feed the wires through the hole in the swivel adapter and reconnect the yellow terminal in the correct slot before you place the black box back on the tab.


Double check the bolts. This is important. Someone you care about will probably be riding in that seat.

Due to the shape of the seat and the amount of recline you have, you may need to scoot the seat forward or back to get it to rotate. The shoulder strap will not be in the way if you let it rest behind the shoulder of the seat.


I have had the seat installed for a while now. It works well and does what it says it would do.


However I have noticed that if I do have a passenger riding in that seat, the swivel has introduced a squeak that comes along with any vibration or movement. I am going to see if I can get some type of grease in between the plates to remove the issue and I will keep you posted.


Overall, a solid product. I know that the installation raised the seat height around 2 or a bit more inches. On the seats with electric controls, I have heard there is a substantially grater height change.


http://www.swivelsrus.com/ was where I purchased mine. Give them a call. They were very helpful and had a lot of information. Hopefully this write up will help if you decide to do an install similar to mine.


Thanks for the read and keep the course.